Many things are said about Paris and comparing the city to a woman is one of them. Writers like Gertrude Stein and other great admirers of the city make this comparison. The famous dancer and singer Josephine Baker chose the city of light for her debut and with sensual hip movements she sang her “Paris Paname”. The artist knew that Paris was the perfect place for her “charme” and the lyrics covered the French capital with praise. La Place Vendôme and the chic boulevards of the city shine in a special way when they meet with the masters of the needle that seduce us with their proposals. Balenciaga, Lanvin, Céline or romantic Nina Ricci, along with new brands such as Erdem, Preen or Hakaan are some of the fashion houses that light up and make Paris what it is.
Nicolas Ghesquière for Balenciaga reaches into the 60’s and 70’s where he finds the inspiration from the mod culture and the rockabilly bands to create a luxurious underground mood. With slicked back hair and the Grease song “You are the Want That I Want” in the background Guesquière presents a collection of rigid and spacious silhouettes and bright colours like red or black. The most important accessories are the reinvented ”Boogie” shoes and leather jackets, resulting in the cool and somewhat rebellious look that the designer is looking for.
With Lanvin, glamour is alive in each garment presented by designer Alber Elbaz. An eclectic collection, where the colour palette ranges from soft pink to bright red, from brown to acid yellow and where the strong minimalistic lines fill the garments that fit like a second skin. There are several ingredients that the designer has included to create a modern and fluid collection. Draped skirts that seem to float and tight tops with tribal details and gladiator-style shoes.
With Céline the expectation is palpable. Phoebe Philo embraces minimalism without eliminating elegance and sophistication from her collections. Her clothes created from fabrics that appear starchy are based on simple lines and geometric shapes in monastic white. The collection includes high-waisted trousers with tops in acid yellow, red or green and dresses with a subtle leather trim that adorns the garment without taking over. The British designer has in a short time created iconic pieces for the French brand such as the exquisite collection of accessories in which she without mercy mixes the natural jute with python in fluorescent colours giving a great atmosphere to the shop windows of the most important luxury stores.
Once again the romance is breathed in Nina Ricci. Bows, ruffles, lace and colours like white, nude and a wide range of rose tones are the elements used in a collection that designer Peter Copping finds inspiration for in the Greek island of Skorpios, where Jackie Kennedy-Onassis wore her most photographed T-shirt dresses.
Erdem Moralioglu turns the gaze towards Haute Couture. The British designer can now boast of being one of the most acclaimed designers by celebrities around the world as well as to be appreciated on the U.S. market. Moralioglu pays tribute to designer Fortuny, the master of irregular pleats with his halter-neck dresses and bell shaped skirts. He also links his collection in blue and black prints to the more than respected Delfos dress. Shirt dresses with sleeves in poplin and organza cuffs. The designer touches many different ideas in creating this elegant collection.
Preen is another brand that Santa Eulalia opts for next season. The second collection by Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi is a nod to the sex symbol Brigitte Bardot in the movie Shalako. The designers reinterpret the full button Victorian-inspired shirt without losing the wild point with chamois trousers that fits like a second skin. The bustier with asymmetric lines in red, viola or classic black is a piece of the designers’ puzzle, along with other items such as printed silk skirts and cardigans full of detail.
With a luxury casting in which the top models Daria Werboy, Isabeli Fontana, Natalia Vodianova and Anja Rubik were found, the Turkish designer Hakaan wanted to make a good impression in his first show. And it wasn’t difficult because they were backed up by friends like Naomi Campbell and Eva Herzigova as well as the prestigious fashion photographer Mer Alas. It was certainly the best company in which to present a collection of tailored silhouettes but precise cuts in white, pearl gray or black mini dresses or jumpsuits in transparent silk.