On Monday, November 7th we welcomed the week organizing a tailor workshop in the men’s section of Santa Eulalia. The president of the Italian company Kiton, Mr. Antonio de Matteis, Mr. Luis Sans and blogger of El Aristocrata and El Mayordomo, Mr. José María López-Galiacho, approached the guests to the wonderful world of two opposing tailoring different styles: English versus Neapolitan.
It was an interactive and fun workshop where the fabrics were the main character. All guests could touch the material which creates a suit and share their concerns and thoughts with the speakers.
Mr. Luis Sans started the colloquium talking about the style and class of the Duke of Windsor bearing in mind that nine of the Prince of Wales suites are showed in Santa Eulalia. The young aristocrat not only caused a furor among the English for their busy social life and loving, but also by their dress. At the time, was criticized for crossing the barriers of what a prince should be, wear and do, but there is no doubt that today is a landmark that marked a before and after regarding the fashion world.
Then Mr. Luis Sans introduced the beginnings of English tailoring since James Poole opened its first store in Brunswick Square, in 1806. Originally specializing in military tailoring the Battle of Waterloo and later, after the founder’s death in 1846, he moved to number 15 from the famous London street Savile Row. Today, the company Henry Poole & Co. is considered the founder of Street Savile Row and the creator of dinner suit.
The blogger and writer José María López-Galiacho spoke about the English tailoring but previously said “I would not say which style is better or worse, whether English or Italian, since each is consistent with the culture, history and expertise of each country “. In addition he also said that “a good tailor is one that manages to convey the character and personality of the person. He is able to take the air of his client and translate it into a suit“. The main difference that the blogger noted in both styles is that the Italian “mistake is allowed, it is lightweight, unstructured, somewhat forced” while English is not so, the suit is more rigid, more perfect. Not looking for a new suit, but a suit that ever lived.
Then, Mr. Antonio de Matteis intervened to introduce his son Mariano de Matteis and add his comments about the Neapolitan style and as Mr. Sans said, “Who better to talk about the Neapolitan style than a Neapolitan tailoring.”
The president of the Italian company Kiton explained that due to high temperatures in southern Italy, the costumes from that area have always been characterized by being made of a tissue. What at the time was a peculiarity of the suit due to weather today has become a feature of Neapolitan tailoring. He also stated that “they should wear the suit, not the firm, because they like to wear and makes them feel young.”
His tailor shop currently consists of 350 tailors who sew by hand and cut with scissors tissue to tissue, not lasers as most firms do. It has also created his own school of tailors for the new generation of young people continues a tradition of craftsmanship as tailoring is.
Finally, a cocktail offered to guests while they chatted animatedly with the speakers.